When Vienna is mentioned, the usual clichés inevitably spring to mind: Schloss Schönbrunn and the city's vast cathedral, chocolaty Sachertorte with lashings of whipped cream, Mozart, the Vienna Boys' Choir and couples in tails and ball gowns waltzing to Johann Strauß. There are also the more general Austrian associations of snow-capped peaks against brilliantly blue skies, gingerbread churches stuffed with fat-faced Baroque cherubs and rosy-cheeked girls in dirndls running up mountains and burst ...